The heart of old Ankara. The citadel, caravanserais, a historic market, restaurants that have stuck around forever — the air here is different. It skips the shine of the newer districts but has a story instead; every corner faces a different era. Wander by day, duck into the old shops, climb the citadel. It winds down early, so head back downtown for nightlife. If you want to spend a day inside history, let the dice stop in Ulus.